I see that these are on their new release list on the latest newsletter. An easy way to put some troops together, I will probably get some to supplement my other chaps. My only gripe is the insistance on having Pikemen with pikes held horizontaly, as shown in the photos. Why do people do this, it is such a pain on the wargames table, they look rather nice tho!
Nick
New 28mm Warlord Games Swedish and Imperialists
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madaxeman
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Re: New 28mm Warlord Games Swedish and Imperialists
Its on the website too - they are exactly the same set of figures as the ECW range, but with a handful of new metal command figures, some more helmets and some different flags !nickdives wrote:I see that these are on their new release list on the latest newsletter. An easy way to put some troops together, I will probably get some to supplement my other chaps. My only gripe is the insistance on having Pikemen with pikes held horizontaly, as shown in the photos. Why do people do this, it is such a pain on the wargames table, they look rather nice tho!
Nick
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deadtorius
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I also have an issue with the horizontal pikes so I solved the problem. I bought some really nice metal pikes from Northstar for my ancients. they are 100mm long so a bit longer than the pikes in the Warlord boxes. No problem they can easily be cut to the same length.
I then just cut the pikes out of the hands of the annoying pike dudes, and cut the rear arm on a bit of an angle at the shoulder so it will be at a slightly lower angle to the body when attached and the pike will end up going up a bit higher. Then you drill out both hands, a slightly smaller hole in the palm of the rear hand so the metal pike has somewhere to sit in, helps it when you glue it in place. You will have to trim some of the plastic pike off the rear arm but a sharp knife works well on this and do this before you attach to the bodies.
I can now position the arms as I like so that the front arm can be set with the hand higher and like I said before the rear arm can sits at a lower angle, then insert the pike before the arm glue dries so you get tight joints etc. and you will know where the arms need to end up.
I let the arms dry in place in their new positions and then insert the pike again and glue it into their hands using Bob Smith Industries Insta-Cure cyanoacrylate glue which works well on metal and plastic too.
I also find this works well to glue metal hats from Warlord on to the plastic figs, if you buy any of their hat or helmet sprues they are metal and the new helmets might be metal as they are using the old plastic sprues with new hats and helms.
Actually I have been replacing all my plastic pikes with the Northstar ones, no worries about snapping plastic pikes in my armies
I then just cut the pikes out of the hands of the annoying pike dudes, and cut the rear arm on a bit of an angle at the shoulder so it will be at a slightly lower angle to the body when attached and the pike will end up going up a bit higher. Then you drill out both hands, a slightly smaller hole in the palm of the rear hand so the metal pike has somewhere to sit in, helps it when you glue it in place. You will have to trim some of the plastic pike off the rear arm but a sharp knife works well on this and do this before you attach to the bodies.
I can now position the arms as I like so that the front arm can be set with the hand higher and like I said before the rear arm can sits at a lower angle, then insert the pike before the arm glue dries so you get tight joints etc. and you will know where the arms need to end up.
I let the arms dry in place in their new positions and then insert the pike again and glue it into their hands using Bob Smith Industries Insta-Cure cyanoacrylate glue which works well on metal and plastic too.
I also find this works well to glue metal hats from Warlord on to the plastic figs, if you buy any of their hat or helmet sprues they are metal and the new helmets might be metal as they are using the old plastic sprues with new hats and helms.
Actually I have been replacing all my plastic pikes with the Northstar ones, no worries about snapping plastic pikes in my armies
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CrazyHarborc
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Hello all
I have plans for those WG's 30 Years War add ons. Actually I am looking for some helmets. I want to try a headgear swope with my current WG's ECW foot.
Whatever....They will just "fill in", until I get some more legit Renaissance foot. Got to dig out my GW 5/6th Edition Empire plastic minies. I converted most of those spearmen to pikemen a couple of years ago.
I have plans for those WG's 30 Years War add ons. Actually I am looking for some helmets. I want to try a headgear swope with my current WG's ECW foot.
Whatever....They will just "fill in", until I get some more legit Renaissance foot. Got to dig out my GW 5/6th Edition Empire plastic minies. I converted most of those spearmen to pikemen a couple of years ago.
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deadtorius
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Try this link
http://shop.warlordgames.co.uk/morions-pack-1626-p.asp
It should take you to their site where you can buy metal sprues of the helmets that I am guessing are the ones they put in their 30 YW sets. Unfortunately their site is not very well laid out and I can only get to that link by going to their webstore link and choosing accessories from their pike and shot. Not really the easiest to find what you want even if you have seen stuff on their site from a past visit.
http://shop.warlordgames.co.uk/morions-pack-1626-p.asp
It should take you to their site where you can buy metal sprues of the helmets that I am guessing are the ones they put in their 30 YW sets. Unfortunately their site is not very well laid out and I can only get to that link by going to their webstore link and choosing accessories from their pike and shot. Not really the easiest to find what you want even if you have seen stuff on their site from a past visit.
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CrazyHarborc
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footslogger
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deadtorius
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Arms are separate, weapons are molded in the arms. Shot has one hand molded onto the weapon the other arm has a pin that is glued into the hand that is molded onto the weapon. some of the swords are separate, and head gear. Not really that bad for the inf.
Cavalry horse and rider are separate, headgear has to be glued on, either helmet or soft hat with hair. 1 arm is separate, you have several choices of sword up, sword charging, pistol up, pistol shooting, standard and trumpet. All those are 1 piece moldings so easy to glue. Horses are in 2 halves, so they need to be assembled but it is not that big a deal. Pistol holsters are the only real pain as they are all separate, but are easiest to glue after the rider is on the horse.
The sets come with plastic head gear, and you can get metal helmets, hats and Scottish tams from them if you want.
I find the flags are a bother they look great but the paper is way too thick and the ink will crack when you try to fold and bend them. I have taken to either using a sharp knife to separate the flags to 1/2 thickness so they bend easier(literally split the paper to half thickness), scan them as regular paper bends much easier but the colours do not come out as nice, use free flags off the internet or buy after market flags. I also find them somewhat on the small side compared to other manufacturers.
Very nice figs we can field almost 1000 points now if we want so I have done quite a number of them and they do paint up very nicely.
Cavalry horse and rider are separate, headgear has to be glued on, either helmet or soft hat with hair. 1 arm is separate, you have several choices of sword up, sword charging, pistol up, pistol shooting, standard and trumpet. All those are 1 piece moldings so easy to glue. Horses are in 2 halves, so they need to be assembled but it is not that big a deal. Pistol holsters are the only real pain as they are all separate, but are easiest to glue after the rider is on the horse.
The sets come with plastic head gear, and you can get metal helmets, hats and Scottish tams from them if you want.
I find the flags are a bother they look great but the paper is way too thick and the ink will crack when you try to fold and bend them. I have taken to either using a sharp knife to separate the flags to 1/2 thickness so they bend easier(literally split the paper to half thickness), scan them as regular paper bends much easier but the colours do not come out as nice, use free flags off the internet or buy after market flags. I also find them somewhat on the small side compared to other manufacturers.
Very nice figs we can field almost 1000 points now if we want so I have done quite a number of them and they do paint up very nicely.